Hi everybody,

This loop trail in Calaveras Big Trees State Park takes us up and around Big Trees Creek and the South Grove.  Unlike the Beaver Creek Loop, this path stays entirely within the park boundaries and stays on fire roads that are behind locked gates and well maintained.  At a little over 11 miles, with a couple moderate climbs, this trail is great for mountain bikes, good for trail running, but perhaps a bit long for hiking.  However, again unlike the Beaver Creek Loop, this path is mostly under the cover of the forest with fewer completely exposed areas.

We start the trail at the locked gate which is at the end of Big Trees Parkway (the road to the South Grove).  From there, we follow the same path that we did for the Beaver Creek Loop up to the point where the Rail Road Grade takes off to the left.  So from the locked gate, we go about 1/2 mile upstream on the West side of Beaver Creek where we cross it on a good bridge. We’re now going to be heading down stream on the east side of Beaver Creek, but our path goes gently up hill rather than following the stream bed. After another half mile or so, we come to where the Bradley Grove trail crosses our path.  The Bradley Grove trail is a footpath only so don’t take your Dog or Bicycle off the road to explore.  Dogs and Bicycles are only allowed in campgrounds, or on paved roads, and fire trails in the Park.  There is a place to lock your bike at the junction in case you want to go have a look.

A little more than a quarter mile further up the road we come to where we turned sharply left for the Beaver Creek Loop.  At this point, about 1.4 miles into our journey, we’ll stay on the main road and go straight this time.  In just a few more yards  we’ll come fork in the road and take it (I love that line!).  This is where the actual loop part of our path begins and ends.  We’ll be going left, counter clockwise around Big Trees Creek and the South Grove.  You could go the other way, but if you’re going on a mountain bike my personal opinion is that the counter clockwise direction is better because you don’t have as many gravely uphill sections to deal with.

There is a sign at this fork indicating that the path to the right is 5N07, and the path to the left is 5N36.  However, recent topo maps, such as those from MyTopo.com, indicate that the path to the left is actually 5N45.  If you’ve taken the Beaver Creek Loop path already, you’ll  no doubt recognize that 5N07, off to the right, is a continuation of the old railroad grade that used to go through the forest.

After taking the left fork (not 5N07), we’ll very shortly run into one of the steeper uphill sections of or path.  A bit further on and the steepness of the slope decreases but we’ll continue generally up hill until we reach the five mile mark in our trek.

Alpine Gold (Hulsea algida)... I think

When we’ve gone almost 1.7 miles from the start, we find ourselves in a section of the forest that appears to have gone through a forest fire in the not too distant past.  It appears that either the fire or the fire fighters, or both have thinned the forest and the understory in this area.  As a result, this area is also a great place to find a wide variety of wildflowers. In the resources section below I’ve shown a great book to help identify many of the wildflowers you’ll come across as well as most of the other plants, trees, mammals, fish, insects, and spiders you’ll come across in the Sierras.

At about 4.3 miles from the start we come to another one of the areas in the park where its volcanic past is evident.  Much like what was described in the Lava Bluffs Trail article, you’ll see patches of lava and ash mixed with native rock.  There’s a great description of the geologic history of the Sierras in the other resource I have listed below.

After having gone about 4.6 miles, we come, finally, to the highest elevation of our journey.  At this point, we are almost directly above the start of Big Trees Creek which flows South West from here.  We’ve been following its path upstream since shortly after taking the fork onto 5N45 (or 5N36???).  Though we’ve been following its path,  the creek is small enough, and we’ve been far enough from it that we’ve yet to see or hear any evidence of it.  So, don’t count on the creek to replenish your water.  Bring what you need for you and your dogs if they’ve come along.

Barbed Wire Gate at Peak

At the peak here our path will take use around  a bend to the right and we’ll start going down hill.  Right at the peak you may notice a barbed wire gate off to the left, near the main path.  Starting here, for the next four miles or so, we’ll be skirting the southern boundary of the State Park.  Keep and eye on your left and you’ll often catch a glimpse of the barbed wire fence intended to keep free range cattle out of the park.  Keep your ears open and you may hear the cow bells.  You may even run into cattle inside the park if someone has negligently left one of the gates open.  If that happens, make sure you go by the Park’s visitor center and let them know where you saw the cattle.

A short distance from the peak we come to the first of several fairly steep, gravel covered sections going down hill.  For me personally, these are the reason why I like taking the trail in this counter clockwise direction, particularly on my mountain bike.  I’d much prefer to deal with gravel going downhill rather than up hill.

Unmarked Trail

At about 6.3 miles from the start, there is an unmarked trail that goes off to the right.  This trail is obvious and appears to have been built and maintained but does not show up on either the park map or topo maps… the only mystery of the day…  However, we’re staying on our fire trail, down hill, to the South West. In another quarter mile we run into another unmarked trail that also looks purposely built and maintained.  Here again the trail does not show up on either the park map or topo maps.

At about 7 miles from the start we come across another fire trail going South, off to our left.  We’re going to go on past it though since it (5N20) just leads outside the park and is no doubt fenced off. In just a little less than another mile, at about 8 miles from the start, we come to another fire trail leading off to the left.  Here again, we’ll keep to our course bending a bit to the right since this road (5N36 I believe) also leads outside the park and is probably fenced off.

Gate on 5N07

In another four tenths of a mile, at 8.5 miles from the start, our course takes a sharp right.  This is the junction of 5N07 and 5N45 that we’ve been following up to now since taking the fork near the beginning.  There’s a chain link fence across 5N07 to the the left, which is also the Park boundary.  So, our course is to the right, now on 5N07.

At a little over 9 miles from the start we come across a junction with another road that goes off to the left.  It also appears that at one time it crossed and went off to the right as well but that direction has not been maintained.  This road does not show up on topo maps so I can’t tell you what it is or where it goes.  Fortunately, our path is pretty obvious and we’re going to stay on it.

Big Trees Creek

Just a bit further down 5N07, at about 9.2 miles from the start, we finally get our first, and only glimpse of Big Trees Creek.  While the Big Trees are impressive, the creek is not.  If flows under our path in an unflattering corrugated steel culvert.

South Grove Trail Signs

Very shortly after leaving Big Trees Creek behind, we come to where the South Grove Trail crosses 5N07.  The trail is clearly marked, but too often, people who are going out to the South Grove become momentarily confused by this junction and may want to follow you rather than pay attention to the trail signs.  If  this happens, please get them turned around and back on the trail.

5N07 on Railroad Grade

Soon after the South Grove trail crossing, at about 9.3 miles from the start, our path, 5N07, starts to follow the old railroad grade that was uses to haul lumber through the forest.  Where we join the grade you can see an unmaintained section of it going off to the right as our path follows it to the left.   Being an old railroad grade, the slope is gentle and you can see evidence of the tremendous effort that was made to keep it that way. We’ll follow the grade for about seven tenths of a mile as it gradually turns us in a North Easterly direction and takes us all the way back to  the fork where we started our loop.

Coming from this direction, if you look across the road we originally came in on, you’ll be able to clearly see how the railroad grade continues on the other side of the road.  For a description of that path read the article “Beaver Creek Loop”.

We’re now back in familiar territory, on the road that we originally came in on, at the form marked with the sign for 5N07 and 5N36.  So, we’ll turn left toward Beaver Creek, and follow the path about 1.4 miles back to the parking area.

I have hiked and mountain biked this path.  Both were enjoyable, but I thought it was a better for mountain biking than for hiking, mostly due to the distance.  If you’re going to hike over eleven miles, there are some much more scenic trails in the area.

Recommended resources:

Enjoy,

joe

I’m calling this a track rather than a trail because it really is a linked set of forest roads rather than a designated trail.  Some of the road sections are inside Calaveras Big Trees State Park, and some are outside the park on Sierra Pacific Industries land.  Some sections are maintained, and some are not.  On the sections that are not maintained, you are bound to come across downed trees, brush, etc, that you’ll have to deal with one way or another.

The track goes up the east side of Beaver Creek for about 5 miles, then crosses over and comes back down the west side.  Much of the first half of the trail is on a Railroad grade that was built (as far as I can tell) shortly after World War II by the Pickering Lumber Company who were logging giant Sugar Pine and other timber in the area.  This grade, and our track, passes right next to the smallest National Forest, Calaveras Big Tree National Forest, which was set aside in 1945 to protect a stand of these old growth Sugar Pines.  The national park is easy to miss as there are no signs, roads, trails, or improvements of any sort, and it is only 379 acres.

End of South Grove Road

The track starts at the end of the Calaveras Big Trees State Park, South Grove road.  There is a dirt fire road behind the locked gate at the end of the paved road.  This fire trail follows the West side of Beaver creek upstream for about 0.6 miles until it crosses over to the east side on a solid vehicle bridge.

Bridge Across Beaver Creek

This location, where there is easy access to the creek and some places where the flow slows some, is a favorite for trout fishermen.

Once across the bridge, we go back downstream, now on the East side of Beaver Creek for a ways.  Though we are going down stream, the trail still gradually picks up elevation as we begin to rise above the creek bed.

At a little less than a mile and a quarter from the start, and about six tenths of a mile from the bridge, we come across a trail crossing.  Here, the Bradley Grove Trail crosses our path.  In fact, though I did not confirm it on my exploratory hike, I believe that the Bradley Grove trail later meets up with the Rail Road Grade where we will soon find ourselves.

Bradley Grove Trail Crossing

Remember that while in the State Park, dogs and bicycles are not allowed on single track foot paths, like the Bradley Grove Trail.  So, if you’re on a bicycle and want to check out the trail, they’ve provided a locking station right at the junction.  If you’ve brought your dog, keep on the road.

A little over a quarter mile from the Bradley Grove trail crossing, and a little less that a mile and a half from the start, you’ll see a very sharp left hand turn, almost a U turn.  Take this to the left and it will put you on the old Railroad grade.

Covered Water Tank

Just before you get to the Railroad Grade turn, you may see a water tank with a metal roof off to the right.  If you see it, it means you’re getting really close.

If you happen to miss the sharp left turn onto the railroad grade, then in a few more yards you may notice a set of railroad ties set into the roadbed.  If you come across these, you’ve gone a bit too far… turn around.

The railroad grade is marked as forest road 5N05X on some topo maps.

Start Of Railroad Grade Path

Here’s what the start of the railroad grade looks like (to the left) after you’ve taken the sharp left.  It’s very inviting.  You can tell right away that this is a road that does not see as much traffic as the one we’ve been on.  Also, being a railroad grade, designed for hauling tons of timber out of the forest, it has  a very gentle slope to it.

Some Smaller Down Trees

Once we make the turn and start on the Railroad grade, you’ll likely find that this section is not maintained.  This results in a very lush, overgrown understory to the forest encroaching on the road and sometimes dominating it.  It also means that it’s pretty likely that you’ll run into several fallen trees along the way.  On my exploratory trek, some of these fallen trees were fairly small and easy to get over….

Some Larger Down Trees

Some, not so easy…

Railroad Ties Along Path

Along the way, keep your eyes out along the sides of the path for old Railroad ties.

Sometimes there are just one or two buried in forest litter.  In a few places there are large piles of the ties as you can see here.  My guess is that at some point when they were done logging in the area, they pulled up the track to use elsewhere and moved the ties out of the way so they could use the road bed.

Railroad Grade Cut

A little over four tents of a mile from the start of the Railroad grade, and about 1.9 miles from the start, you’ll come across one of several examples of where they made a cut through the hillside in order to maintain the gentle slope for the railroad.  That’s a lot of dirt to have moved!

Overgrown Stretch

In another three tenths of a mile, just a little over 2 miles from the start, we come to a section of the track that is pretty densely overgrown.  It’s quite beautiful anytime but even more so when the dogwoods are blooming in the spring or changing color in the fall.  As beautiful as it is, remember that it is not maintained and there are lots of poked eye and tripped foot opportunities.

In this general vicinity keep your eyes open for redwoods.  We’re near the Bradley Grove here and you should see quite a few young Redwoods in the area.

Locked Gate At Park Boundary

In another seven tenths of a mile, at about 2.9 miles from the start, we come to what I suppose is the edge of the park, and a locked gate.  There’s no barbed wire, and no signs suggesting otherwise, so it’s easy to walk around the side of the gate.

Barbwire Cattle Guard / Gate

About a quarter mile down the road we run into a cattle gate which includes a ramshackle barbwire gate across a steel cattle guard.  If you walk around to the right side of the gate you’ll see that it is held in place by a wire loop at the top.  Lift the wire loop off the top and you can get through.  Just make sure you put it back so cattle don’t get into the park!!!

Now, you are in a different environment!  The path we’re taking is now accessible by us as well as range cattle, Jeeps, Motorcycles, and… Logging Trucks!  Keep your eyes and ears open and stay out of the middle of the road.

Clearcut Area

About 0.3 miles from the barbwire cattle gate you’ll come around a bend to the left and clear evidence that you’re outside of the park.  This is one of several clear cut areas that we’ll pass over the next few miles.  If you take a look at the map above with the satellite option, you’ll be able to see the patchwork of clear cut sections all over Sierra Pacific Industries land.

In another 0.3 miles further down the road, and 3.74 miles from the parking area, we come across a forest road that branches off to the left, and appears to be headed down toward Beaver Creek.  We’ll stay keep going on 5N05X, the railroad grade.  We come to another junction in a bit less than a quarter mile, this time with a road leading off to the right.  Here again, we continue on the railroad grade, which itself bends to the right at this point, though more gently… like a railroad grade would do.  This junction is also not shown on some topo maps.

Old Track

In a little less than a quarter mile from the last junction and about 4.2 miles from the parking area, we come to where there must have been a small trestle crossing Grizzly creek.  If you make your way over toward Beaver Creek at this point you may catch a glimpse of an piece of the old track sticking out of the bank on the other side of the creek.  I could see no other remnants of the train crossing.

Grizzly Creek Crossing

Our track takes us off the railroad grade for a short distance to a walk-across crossing of Grizzly creek.  After crossing the creek, we double back and find ourselves near the other side of the old railroad crossing where we rejoin the grade.  Here again, if you make your way down near the bank of Beaver Creek, you may be able to get a closer look at the piece of old railroad track sticking out of the bank.

Railroad Grade Cut

It’s pretty obvious when we rejoin the the old railroad grade.  One of the clues is how the road was cut through small rises in the terrain in order to maintain the shallow grade.  Whenever we leave the grade the track tends to follow the terrain more closely.

A little less than a half mile from the Grizzly Creek crossing, and about 4.7 miles from the parking area we pass through an old, abandoned cattle guard.  The fence is down and the grate is completely filled with dirt so it’s not going to stop many cows… or us.

A little less than four tenths of a mile from the abandoned cattle guard, the slope of the road becomes noticeably steeper.  I didn’t notice where the grade took off from 5N05X, but from here on, we’re no longer on the old railroad grade.

Sign Pointing Where We've Come From

About a 6 tenths of a mile from the old cattle guard, we come across a junction with an unmarked road off to the right.  We’ll keep going on 5N05X for just another tenth of a mile, where we’ve come to a junction with forest route 5N03.  There is a sign at this junction indicating that we’ve been on 5N05X.

O. K. Corral

We’re going to continue in a Northeasterly direction on 5N03, and go past, of all things, what is indicated to be the O. K. Corral.  It’s an unexpected site out here in the middle of nowhere!

We’re now about 5.4 miles from the parking area.

Just a bit further down the road, we come across a sign indicating that we’re now on forest route 5N03.

About 0.28 miles from the O.K. Corral, where we joined 5N03, we come to a signed junction with 5N02.  5N02 is a major forest road that goes all the way from Boards Crossing Road in Dorrington, over to Beardsley Lake near Highway 108.  We’ll cover this rather long, bumpy, dusty road trip in another article soon.  5N02 is also known as Hell’s Half Acre Road.

Bridge Across Beaver Creek Outside Park

We’re going to go left on 5N02.  In about a tenth of a mile, at a little over 5.8 miles from the parking area, we’re going to cross a good, solid bridge to the west side of Beaver Creek.  There is relatively easy access to the creek on the west side of the bridge both up and down stream.  It looks like a great fishing spot to me.

Beaver Creeek Near Bridge

Once we cross the bridge, we’re going to bear left, leaving 5N02 almost immediately after the bridge , until we’re headed generally Southwest, following the course of Beaver Creek.  On the East side of the creek we had been fairly close to the level of the creek bed.  On the West side we find ourselves rising above it as it cuts lower as it goes downstream and we gain a bit of altitude.

About a half mile from the Bridge, and 6.34 miles from the parking area, we come to a left hand turn which we’ll take onto Forest Route 5N78.  This forest road descends gradually, at about the same rate as Beaver Creek in a generally Southwest direction.  We descend steadily for a little over a mile where we come to a junction with a road that goes off to the left.  At this point we’ll continue on, now starting to go up hill.  We’ve now gone a little over 7.4 miles from the parking area.

We continue going up hill for another 3/4 mile where we’ll come to a more level stretch and a fork in the road.  We’re going to bear left, following the stream bed although we are now quite a ways above it.  The next four tenths of a mile is fairly level.  After the fairly level section we’re going to be headed down hill all the way back to the parking area.  On the way down, you may notice a couple roads that take off from our track that have had ridges bulldozed into them to discourage vehicle traffic.  Don’t take any of these, stay on the main course.

More Down Trees

About 3.2 miles from the bridge over Beaver Creek, and  9 miles from the beginning of our trek, you should come to a locked gate marking the boundary back into Calaveras Big Trees State Park.  On the positive side… no more vehicles, no more cows.  On the negative side… no more maintenance!  When I took the path, I came across a section here with lots of down trees.

Slightly less than a mile from the gate back into the park, we come to a fork in the road where we’ll bear right.  At this point, either fork will take is back to the trail near where we started, but going right here is just a little quicker.  In about a quarter mile we’ll rejoin the trail we started on within sight of the parking area.

I have taken this path now by foot and mountain bike.  I have to say that it is much more fun on the mountain bike.  Other than dealing with down trees, gates, and a few overgrown areas, the path is clear, well graded fire trails and the assents are not too steep.  For a walking trail it’s a bit long, a bit exposed and dusty, and not as scenic as many other hiking trails in the vicinity.

As I said at the beginning, this is not a marked or maintained trail.  You should have a map and/or GPS and have figured out where the track goes if you want to try it.  Use at your own risk!

Enjoy the outdoors!

joe